” It’s the most populous country on earth, so it’s no surprise that before visiting China for the first time, our resident expert Rachel felt a little daunted and overwhelmed.
However, it swiftly established itself as one of her favorite countries – and this is her introduction to it. Read on for an insight into luxury travel around the 5,000-year-old nation.
China: daunting and overwhelming?
When I first went to China in 2008 to visit a friend living in Beijing, I wasn’t sure what to expect and thought the whole experience of Chinese culture was going to be overwhelming and daunting. Not being able to speak the language was my first worry; knowing very little about the country the second, and the fact that it was closed to all but selected foreign visitors from 1940-1974 meant that it wasn’t such a well-trodden path. However, as soon as I returned to the UK, I started planning my next trip: an eight-day trek along the Great Wall one year later.
I was wrong
Earlier this year, I had the chance to explore China’s cosmopolitan cities and more rural, undiscovered regions – and I was chomping at the bit to go. Not overwhelming or daunting in any way, I discovered that my initial expectations had been wrong and that the People’s Republic is quite the opposite.
The country has a huge amount to offer: not only is the food delicious (once you get the hang of eating with chopsticks), but the people are incredibly friendly. China is steeped in history and there is still beautiful undiscovered countryside, which makes a good contrast with the new fast-growing cities that are dotted over China’s 30 provinces.
Beijing: the must-see sites
Beijing makes for a perfect starting point with direct ten-hour flights from London. With a population of 18 million in a city the size of Belgium, you could spend a whole week sightseeing and still not have ticked everything off the list. Must-sees are the Forbidden City, Tian’an Men Square (the largest public square in any city, which can hold more than a million people), The Temple of Heaven, The Great Wall, The Lama Temple, The Silk Market, The Pearl Market, The Hutons and, if you’re interested, the Birds Nest and Olympic Village. The list is endless.
Xian and the Terracotta Warriors
After Beijing, I took an hour-long flight to Xian, a city in the Shaanxi province. The city itself has a huge amount to offer: the bell tower, drum tower, and the Muslim quarter markets are all great to see. But of course, the main reason people head to Xian is for the Terracotta Warriors.
I was a little skeptical before I went, assuming that they were going to be a Chinese gimmick to encourage tourism to the Shaanxi province. However, despite battling through the entrance with what seemed like the rest of the Chinese population, it was the most incredible sight. Discovered by three farmers in 1979 whilst digging a well, archaeologists have since spent painstakingly long hours piecing together small fragments of all 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots with 520 horses, and 150 cavalry horses, most of which are still in fragments in the pits.
The Terracotta Army is a form of funerary art buried with the First Emperor of Qin in 210-209 BC, who himself is buried nearby on a huge man-made hill. The Army’s purpose was to help rule another empire with Qin Shi Huang in the afterlife, and construction of this mausoleum began in 246 BC and involved 700,000 workers. No two soldiers are alike.
Pandas in Chengdu
From Xian, I flew to Chengdu in the Sichuan province, known for its spicy food. The city itself doesn’t have a huge amount to offer tourists, but the weather is perfect for bamboo growth and therefore attracts the national symbol for peace: the panda. With only 2,000 left in the world, it’s an endangered species due to severe deforestation in the surrounding area.
The government works closely with the local people to increase the population through the Panda Sanctuary, which is a 40-minute drive from the center of town. Here you can see babies, adolescents, and adult pandas in their natural habitat (as close as it gets, anyway). They spend most of their time eating bamboo shoots and sleeping, so they’re not energetic creatures by heart. They also have a dedicated area for the red pandas (which resemble foxes) which are even more endangered than the Giant black and white panda we picture.
Journeying south to Lijiang
Lijiang is further south, in the Yunnan province, and is probably one of the most picturesque places I have ever visited. It makes a pleasant change from the skyscrapers and highways found in most of the larger cities. With a backdrop of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the ancient Lijiang old town, the pace of life is more relaxed and peaceful here! There are lots of small and comfortable guest houses to stay in within the old town, some situated overlooking the sea of grey rooftops, However, if you want to splash out a bit more, the Banyan Tree offers the most luxurious accommodation, situated just outside the town. Some have compared Lijiang to Venice, and you can easily see why, wandering past the many rivers and through the small winding streets.
Fast-paced Shanghai
I ended my trip to Shanghai, the city they call the ‘future of China’. It has some beautiful areas, notably the French Quarter, which resembles small tree-lined streets in Paris. The pace in Shanghai is fast: people eat out rather than eat in, and it’s fun to have a drink in one of the rooftop bars that line the Bund, the main river flowing through the city. Shanghai doesn’t have such a historical impact as Beijing, but offers a fantastic contrast with great restaurants, bars, and shopping; a perfect end to a tour through China.
The bullet train
If you find yourself with some time to spare, jump on the bullet train the Hangzhou. In only 90 minutes, you can be at the beautiful, newly opened Amanfayun, a hotel constructed around a traditional Chinese village in the middle of the green lush tea-growing region. It’s ideal for a few nights to unwind, experience local Hangzhou food, watch the un-missable West Lake show, and visit the historical temples and monasteries before heading back home.
Beijing Attractions, Tiantan Park
” The massed ranks of humanity that inhabit China’s cities now number a staggering 622 million people. Venture on to the streets of Beijing at rush hour and it can feel like the vast majority of them are out and about at the same time.
People’s Parks
It all goes a long way towards explaining the special place that Renmin (People’s) Parks hold in the hearts of urban Chinese. These tranquil oases act as the lungs of China’s increasingly polluted metropolis, but serve a more important function still, best viewed – and understood – at dawn. It’s as the sun comes up that these parks play host to thousands of locals practicing tai chi or meditating, all trying to reconnect with their spirituality before facing another day surrounded by a sixth of the world’s population.
Must visit: Tiantan Park, Beijing
If you only visit one park in China, make it Tiantan Park in Beijing – 273 hectares of greenery and home to palaces and the masterpiece that is the Temple of Heaven, one of the best Beijing attractions. The buildings are well worth visiting, but this is all about the people-watching. It’s not uncommon to see sword-wielding or Frisbee-throwing pensioners, or real-life tree-huggers completely oblivious to the perplexed stares of westerners. It all adds up to an interesting insight into the psyche of these truly fascinating people, and with their dominance of the 21st Century all but assured, that could stand us in the West in good stead.
Part of our new series ‘Around the World in Travel Stories’, celebrating our favorite things from our extensive travels. As with any self-respecting list, there’s absolutely no scientific basis for the choices we’ve made. It’s all shamelessly subjective, and we’ll be listing this year’s Travel Stories (in no particular order) between now and Christmas, so keep an eye out for new entries here on the blog and on our Twitter and Facebook pages.
Six Reasons Why We Should All Go to China Right Now
” China is a fascinating country in which to travel. However, I am not going to lie and say it will ever be my favorite destination; it is a tough country to travel to. There were times that I loved it and others when I was wondering what on earth I was doing there. However, I do think it is somewhere that everyone should travel to at least once. As one of the world’s largest countries, it isn’t somewhere that you can see all in one trip, but you should go soon as some of the history and culture are being lost to Western modernization. There are some amazing landscapes, incredible sites, and unique cultural experiences that you will never forget.
The food
If you are a fan of Chinese takeaway, then you are in for a surprise, Chinese food is far more delicious and varied. You may often find yourself having to go out of your comfort zone and try something you would perhaps not be eating at home! Very importantly I would recommend not just eating in your hotels, some of the best food I had was in small restaurants filled with locals. Chinese food is not always for the faint-hearted so you should go with an open mind and not be too squeamish. You should be prepared to not know what you are eating and choose from pictures on menus with weird and wonderful translations – from the likes of ‘Product of plain bob’ – who knows what that could have been, to ‘The black people shrimp’.
Some of the delicacies that I enjoyed or perhaps tried to stomach whilst there were fish gut soup, deep-fried scorpions, offal (a lot of it), and 100-year-old eggs. It isn’t all hard to stomach, though, the Peking duck was the best I have ever eaten and is an absolute must to try everywhere you go – each city does it slightly differently. The Chengdu hotpot was much talked about and worth trying; it is a real family affair so great fun, if only to people-watch.
The wildlife
Pandas, pandas, pandas! They’ve been my favorite animal since I was very little; I would never go anywhere without my beloved Baby Panda, so seeing them up close in Chengdu was simply incredible. I could have watched them for hours on end; the young pandas are so cheeky, playful, and rather clumsy. I always thought, by contrast, that the red pandas were rather boring, however, in the panda sanctuaries in Chengdu you will find these amazing little creatures shuffling around under your feet and they are utterly adorable.
Landscapes
If time permits, try and get out of the larger cities to explore some of China’s varied landscape. The dramatic limestone karsts in Yangshuo are stunning and a trip down the Li River is an absolute must (be aware there are no private cruises and it can be quite touristy). I would recommend staying in Yangshou and going out on the river on a bamboo raft or borrowing bicycles and exploring at your own pace. Another must are the rice terraces at Longsheng, this can be easily done as a day trip from Guilin, or you can stay in a lovely guest house in the village. In the evening, once the day trippers have left, you can enjoy the peacefulness of life in the hills. These are both high on my list of some of the most incredible landscapes I have found myself in.
The Terracotta Warriors in Xian
It is like going to India for the first time and not seeing the Taj Mahal, the Terracotta Warriors are so much better in real life; you really cannot understand the sheer scale until you have seen them with your own eyes. Dating back to 246 – 206 BC the tomb of Emperor Qin Shihuang took over 720,000 artisans and laborers to build and visiting the site you will see archaeologists at work carefully piecing back together the artwork in the pits. This is one of the top archaeological finds of the 20th century and has been described as the Eighth Wonder of the World. It wasn’t just the warriors that were found, but also terracotta musicians, acrobats, concubines, and birds – waterfowl, ducks, cranes – to give Emperor Qin a grand afterlife. Only three of the four pits have been unearthed, there is a fourth! Try to avoid weekend visits as it can get quite crowded.
Beijing
Home to some of the most iconic tourist attractions in China, it is a city undergoing a lot of change, the more traditional streets and the old hutongs are fast disappearing in the name of modernization. The top three attractions in Beijing are Tian’anmen Square, The Forbidden Palace, and the Temple of Heaven; all of these are worth visiting and would most likely need a whole day. We can obtain private access into otherwise restricted areas of the Forbidden City for our clients! I would probably recommend a minimum of 4 nights here to see the city and enable you to also spend time out at the Summer Palace. If you stay at the Aman they have a private door into the Summer Palace enabling you to go in the morning before anyone else, a real treat! The Great Wall of China is an absolute must, my advice would be to give yourself a little more time and head further out of Beijing to quieter sections of the wall take a good picnic – and spend a whole day if you have the time.
Shanghai
In an amazing contrast to Beijing and a must for the end of any adventure in China, Shanghai is worth the visit after Beijing. I felt so incredibly comfortable in Shanghai, a cosmopolitan city, fun and buzzing.
What should you combine China with?
I would say after a week or two in China you might need a holiday, China is brilliantly connected to many Original Travel holiday destinations – perhaps a week on the beach in the Maldives or perhaps a fun combination would be a week on the beach in Vietnam.
Where To Stay in Shanghai & Hangzhou
Capella Shanghai
Located in the cultural preservation zone of Shanghai’s upmarket Xuhui District, Capella Shanghai offers a unique location, nestled away from the hustle and bustle of the city. This is a soulful heritage retreat that is still close enough to experience all the urban action.
The villas – 55 in total – are serene and stylish with a muted color palette, custom-designed furniture, and a spacious marble bathroom. Step outside to enjoy the use of a courtyard and a tranquil rooftop terrace – perfect for sunny afternoons spent sipping beverages from the complimentary mini-bar while savoring some peace after days spent exploring Shanghai’s vibrant center.
Expect to be well-fed during your stay here, beginning your days with a breakfast of buttery pastries and local dim dum at la Boulangerie, and ending them with mouth-wateringly good French fare at the Michelin-starred Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire restaurant. Afterward, take a seat at the le Bar to sip your way through an impressive wine list.
After experiencing the urban delights of fast-paced Shanghai, return to the hotel for pampering treatments at the award-winning Auriga Spa, complete with a sauna and steam room, as well as a fantastic fitness center.
Why We Love It
With its central location and serene outdoor spaces, Capella Shanghai is the perfect hideaway from the urban action.
The Middle House
Experience fast-paced Shanghai with a stay in The Middle House, a slick and stylish hotel in the heart of the city. Housed within two futuristic towers – designed to echo the local shikumen architectural style – the hotel oozes luxury, from its showstopping chandeliers and sweeping dark-wood staircases, to its low-lit bars and restaurants.
Choose from a selection of contemporary studios and suites featuring a serene color palette, panoramic city views, and large bathrooms behind misted glass walls. Included in the room is a complimentary bar, stocked with soft drinks and beers – perfect for a nightcap before bed – and yoga mats for a hit of wellness.
Expect to be well-fed during your stay. Begin each day with a wonderful a la carte breakfast at Café Gray Deluxe, including everything from green juices and coconut milk muesli to buttery croissants and barbecue duck bing Jian pancakes. Come evening, take your pick from the laid-back Italian restaurant Frasca and contemporary Chinese restaurant Sui Tang Li. When the weather’s warm you can also choose to eat alfresco on the tree-dotted terrace.
After indulging in the hotel’s mouth-wateringly good cuisine, head to the spa for pampering treatments inspired by traditional Chinese medicine and a dip in the adults-only heated swimming pool.
Why We Love It
Indulge in mouth-wateringly good cuisine during your stay at The Middle House from barbecue duck bing jian pancakes at Café Gray Deluxe to delicious Chinese cuisine at Sui Tang Li.